In recent years, butter has been experiencing something of a revival. Once criticized for its high saturated fat content, it is now being reappraised as a quality ingredient. It remains, however, an animal-derived fat and should be consumed in moderation, especially by those with high cholesterol. In the kitchen, its main advantage is still its naturally solid texture—a characteristic that is difficult to replicate without resorting to margarine.
To get around this issue, many chefs with strong expertise in extra virgin olive oil have devised plant-based alternatives that retain butter’s practicality without sacrificing flavor. One emblematic example is the “burr-olio” created by chef Ronald Bukri of the restaurant Il Coro in Orvieto, served as an entrée. It is an oil-based emulsion with a small amount of beeswax, chilled until it reaches a butter-like consistency. It is served with bread and fresh pollen and can be enriched with various ingredients, becoming a versatile and surprising preparation.
Andrea Perini, the “extra-virgin olive oil chef” of Al 588 in Bagno a Ripoli, has also developed his own version, called “burrolio” (this time without the hyphen): an olive-oil butter made from cocoa butter and extra virgin olive oil. Combined with the other ingredients, it whips like traditional butter and is then stabilized in the refrigerator to remain solid. The result? A versatile ingredient, perfect for shortcrust pastry, cakes, and both savory and sweet preparations, opening up new horizons for cooking with less—or no—saturated fat.
